Dye, Drift, Desire: A Textile Fieldwork
Rivers’ Threads (নদীর সুতা), an ongoing project by Clémence Vazard developed during her Villa Swagatam residency at the Brihatta Art Foundation in Bangladesh, approaches the delta as more than a site; it becomes both archive and collaborator, unfolding through water, textile, and the embodied labor of dyeing, mending, and stitching.
Rivers in this project are not backdrop but a key methodological element. Vazard follows a five-stage process — observe, feel, connect, represent, manifest — that allows field encounters to determine what the work can become.
Brihatta Art Foundation had a key role in this research-led practice. Through local mediation, translation, and logistics, the residency opened access to sites that rarely fold into the artist’s studio.
In Dhaka, Vazard explored the crowded sari markets of Begum Bazar and the industrial edges of the Buriganga, selecting discarded garments whose stains and frayed borders already hold intimate histories of wear. She collected river water — labeling jars with names such as Buriganga and Turag — and brought these samples back to Brihatta’s studio, where dye baths, wringing, and drying translated the rivers’ chemistry into stains and gradients.
Brihatta also facilitated sustained exchanges with artisans. Working with craft practitioner Jagadish Chandra Roy, Vazard experimented with indigo and black clay, observing how vegetal tannins and mineral-rich earth generate tones that feel inseparable from riverbeds.
Alongside reclaimed saris, she traced jute — Bangladesh’s “golden fiber” — through markets and production sites, reframing a biodegradable material long displaced by plastic as an ecological proposition in a delta where projections warn that up to 17% of the land may be submerged by 2050.
Traveling through Brihatta’s network to Rajshahi and river communities near the Mohanonda and Padma, Vazard encountered domestic surfaces as vernacular cartographies: mud walls marked with alpana motifs, baskets woven from local fibers, raw cotton in traders’ sacks, and everyday techniques for making with what the landscape provides.
Central throughout is nakshi kantha, learned through close instruction from artisan Runa Begum and other embroiderers, where repeated stitches become gestures of anchoring and, at times, a form of folk magic: embroidering desires for the future into being.
By offering time, studio infrastructure, and a community of dialogue — field access, introductions, and a framework for participatory exchange — Clémence Vazard and Brihatta enabled Rivers’ Threads to emerge as a hybrid textile language: reclaimed cloth, jute, river pigments, and collaborative knowledge woven into a living record of a territory in metamorphosis.
Humaira Hossain
PhD Candidate
University of Illinois Chicago